On the question to readers, where they would send me for, wanted me to send a few readers atom ruin after Fukushima – while others to Niigata. As I imagine it hard, to be able to do much in Fukushima without their own vehicle, I moved so now to Niigata.
The prefecture I had neglected, in fact, been. More than 10 Years, then still only a short-term visitors, and so with the Railpass armed, I went once with the Shinkansen to Niigata City and in the evening back. Earlier this year, then followed a Ski trip Yuzawa.
The current tour was very short – three nights, three days, and was characterized primarily by lack of preparation. So I followed the tip, me times 燕 三条 Tsubame-Sanjo to see, as the area is known for producing high-quality Japanese knives and other metal products. This is true, but to make it, it is worth visiting only, if you bring a lot of time and prepare properly, ie, weiss, which manufactures one wants to visit. For me, it could only fail, I only in the evening to 7 Clock arrived and the next day the ferry from Niigata to 12:55 had to reach. Denn note – es ist Obon, and since everything is fully booked.
Snapshot of Tsubame
Tsubame-Sanjō proved excellent example of failed urban planning. The hyphen can guess, that there are actually two places: Tsubame im Norden, Sanjō in the south. Between the two places was built sometime the Shinkansentrasse and a highway. The consequence: Around the Shinkansenbahnhof they built large shopping centers and restaurants en masse, while the inner cities came down more and more – there are virtually no more shops. At least Tsubame is now apparently clear overaged, and this applies to the infrastructure, the houses and especially for residents. That the area is so well known for the knife- etc.-Production, can you look at the way not say – normally the local characteristics are praised at stations in Japan, if not sold, but the station of Tsubame was just run down.
Well. With the slow train we went to a night in a bog standard business hotel by Yoshida and from there with another slow train to Niigata. The local, zugebenermassen not very nice, Station is currently converted, was, a beautiful chaos in and around the station meant. A spot of lunch, and on we went by bus to the ferry terminal. Out of curiosity, I decided, with the fast ferry back (as. one hour, about 6,500 yen) and the slow ferry (2,720 yen, 2:40 Hours) back down. The ferries were of course sold out, but that was to be expected before, why I had pre-ordered by phone.
Hydrofoils are nice fast, It is of course not on the deck and do not see much. An hour later I was finally in 両津 Ryōtsu, the main port of Insel Sado (佐渡 島 Sado-ga-shima). Translated, the name means “Both ports” – which probably refers to the fact, that the site occupies a narrow isthmus between the sea and a lake. Too much there is to see, and so it went by bus to the other side of the island – after 相 川 Aikawa. This also takes an hour. A view from the window in Ryōtsu revealed a familiar picture: Almost all shops were closed forever, the -Effekt Shutter Street (Rolladen-Strasse, referred to the dying business in inner cities, as you can see there only closed shutters) would have pronounced can not be.
The lightning-shaped island of Sado is simply constructed: Mountains along the two long ends, a layer in the connecting line. There, the bus drove along, bevor's gene Nordic Fuhr. Of course, the level is also populated most densely. However, Aikawa is rather sleepy, and when I got off at the last stop, I stood in the middle of a fishing village with nothing around. Now it was after 3 Clock in the afternoon, but my goal was to, the gold and silver mine 金山 Kinzan to see near Aikawa. Since there are no buses or taxis in the area, I was first going on and stood a few hundred meters before an impressive industrial ruin: Smelting from before 1945. With explanatory signs in Japanese and English, and in very nice condition. Here one has gone to a lot of effort, and the whole area has its morbid charm.
This mountain has split literally hundreds of years ago
Going from there again well 1.5 km along the road through lush green forests uphill running, to get to the actual gold mine. The one has since 1601 developed, and that only aboveground: Man hat, prominently, quasi two shared a complete mountain. Then it went under the earth, and part of the tunnel has expanded to the Museum. The nice thing: Outside there are sultry in summer 30+ Degree – underground contrast 12 Degree. Very refreshing. The mine and around it are all in all quite interesting: Today, the island of Sado is not true on A **** of the world, but very, very close (you have to paddle a while, bus man … In North Korea country), But hundreds of years ago was fought the Mob: Tens of thousands of workers and the entire industry around it (Cooks, Government officials, Prostitute…) were here Blazed, because so many sources of gold, Japan had now no).
It was now very late, the hotel relatively far away and buses None, so I called a taxi. The hotel was a typical Japanese Holiday Hotel – Full board, Onsen, Japanese Room. Very strange, to stay there alone. Dinner was lush gewohntermassen, and as the area is known for fishing, There were of course very much raw fish. As on the eve. And the night before. And the night before that as well. I love raw fish, and especially on the first two evenings of Izu that was very exquisite, but four days in a row, herb. But with a fine Sake of the island fits it already. A quick walk on the beach before sunset, a long bath in the hot spring and already the day was over. Well – at night you could see from the hotel two squid fishing trawler – to recognize the glaring light, that radiates up into the clouds. An eerie sight (the squid boats can be seen from space – see here).
Sunset on the west coast of Sado
The following day should not be less packed. First it was the bus always along the coast to 佐 和田 Sawata, the island's capital. This is as exciting as Kleinmachnow approximately (although, this is unfair: Kleinmachnow is interesting). To the next destination, Ogi Ogi, take only three buses a day. Actually I wanted to also view Ogi instead of Sawata. I ask a taxi driver, how much he for the 30 Kilometers would require, and he said 10’000 Yen, i.e. 75 Euro. This surprised me somewhat, because in many areas of Japan you can actually negotiate for long distances – not so in this case. That's even too much for me – the bus costs 820 Yen – So I write from Ogi.
Looking at dawn on the northern part of the island
The bus ride from Sawata by Ogi should be worth it in any case, because the view is, then one on the right, sea-facing side sitting, spectacular. Lush green paddy fields, behind the cliffs pierced by sea and behind it in turn 1’000 m hohe Berge. In the bus we play meanwhile Ringelpietz with touch: I sit, I was one of the first on the bus. And I look ent- and stretched out of the window. Then I notice a very young, pregnant woman and offer her my seat to. At the next bus stop, the two individual seats in front of her be free. A couple in front of me noticed that as well. The woman points to her husband, that he should offer me the place, I've got my yes just vacated. Selflessly, how many Japanese men are just (The main thing, I have a place), he does so from a contemptuous nod, and you sit the two. Also, they are not of the island, and of course I do not mind, that they now sit, but then it starts: He immediately falls asleep, and she plays on her cell phone Blubberblasen popping. And, wonderful! At least they know how to use their vacation. A short time later, a space becomes available again, I'm back, and am back on the only, as a doddering lady pace ascends the bus.
Typisch Sado: Reisfeld, Sea and mountains
Kaum in Ogi angekommen, ie it already, to board the car ferry. The gut passen 1’000 People purely, and apparently a few Yakuza, the beautifully tattooed there but unfortunately slightly underexposed sayings on it's own. That should be stated at the location times: So far I have not experienced in all the years in Japan among the young Yakuza not too bright lights, but this is obvious – Finally, the brothers are not recruited by the universities but almost at, now so, special “Pathways”, more practice-based, so to speak, prepared to work.
Good 2.5 Hours later we are in 直江津 Naoetsu, a dreary industrial city in Niigata. The few trains give me here again for over an hour stay, and I stromere through downtown. The only new there is the railway station, a small hotel before and the ugliest steel sculpture, I have ever seen. Again, there dies obviously the downtown – almost everything is closed forever. Small neighborhood with dozens of snack dives seems to stem the, but also of which have already given some. Oh, Niigata!
Naoetsu: Washing direct discharge. The sea is not far.
Another hour it will then go to the train, Richtung Nagano, but the destination station is located halfway. It is called Myoko Plateau Myōkō-Kōgen (Kōgen = Plateau). A winter below the striking, around 2,500 meters high Mount Myoko. The whole is reminiscent of a ski resort in Switzerland, only slightly dilapidated, for here the visitor numbers are obviously deteriorated substantially during the last decades. My hotel is small and family run – the owners are very friendly, and in the evening there is, among other – Who would have imagined – raw fish.
The Bergwelt von Niigata
And the view direction Nagano…
The next day it was supposed to rain all day, but I'm lucky. I walk a few hundred meters, for I will take a cable car to 1,200 meters. Suddenly a car stops – not from the area – an, and the co-driver asks me, where I am heading. The question is justified, because the train station is about 5 km. I'm touched and thank you sincerely, but I'm also stubborn and will only take cable car. After that I will then expected, with a 5 rewarded km walk, but that was tuned very good time. No sooner had I reached the station, fing es an, to rain cats and dogs.
A little camera shy: There Myoko-Berg
At the station I suddenly speaks a very old, dapper-looking man in. Right, I had seen just the day before at the same place it. He speaks English quite well and says, He is originally chemist, and he had at the hotel by the staff (with whom I had talked at length in the evening at the hotel bar) is, that I was a geographer, and he would have liked because my opinion on a topic. He was concerned about the ideal final repository for nuclear waste, for he must soon give a talk about. The conversation should be a solid hour – BIS Nagano – last. During the trip, it turned out, dass is emeritierter Professor where Tokyo University (short: Tōdai, THE Japanese Eliteuniversität) is. The discussion was quite interesting – I was only slightly disappointed, as he told me at the end, that now are Obon holiday and therefore the trains are so crowded. And, after I told him, I now since 10 Live years in Japan. And told him certain geological situations in Japanese, because he did not know the English terms. That seemed to him by the automatism “Foreigners about Japan = completely unaufgeklärtes beings” not hold.
So also not seen: Goldfische (and carp) between the train tracks
And she was already – The three-day cross-cross-Tour. As always too short, but better than nothing. Conclusion on the island of Sado: A very nice, remote, wild destination. But without their own vehicle (the island is a paradise for cycling, Krad- and motorists) it is quite difficult, get around.